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Try the single peace bmg gear (RIDGA) by mirageC

Think you overlooked that the bambu a1 has adaptive flow compensation so it knows the pressure in the nozzle

Wow an incredible video! amazing work collecting all the data! I wonder how the DiamondBack nozzles would stack up

Speaking like a potato or like biden does not make a good click bait !

I love this content. Its just difficult to understand you sometimes because you tend to eat words..

tried nozzles from 0.2 up to 0.8. I will never go above 0.4mm again. the print quality is imprecise, ugly and just low quality (I am more sensitive to small details), even with e steps calibrated and all the other calibrations. 0.2 tho? it's slow, but holy hell, the prints are BEAUTIFUL, I will, and do, HAPPILY choose quality over speed. I don't print large prints anyways, but this large nozzle obsession is slowly killing the hobby for me by the day. 0.2 does requite it's own custom profile and tuning though. and a higher temperature.

def gonna try this

Pausing this video to go print something quick …. 😆

Very interesting video, and here I leave you my personal opinion: I actually believe that there is no satisfactory solution to the problem due to the variables that are handled: First, the RPM of each cooler, second the type of operation of the shaft - whether self-lubricated bronze (cheap) or bearings (expensive) -, then by the design format in terms of size and number of blades and finally if it is the traditional or turbine type cooler (traditional less blades, more surface and less RPM, turbine, more blades, less surface and more RPM). In general, manufacturers do not make an effort to put the best on the market as they seek to reduce costs. All this, added to the fact that the lowest possible weight is necessary in the extruder head to reduce inertia, puts us in a quite complicated situation. In fact, printers with silent plates have significantly lowered the level of mechanical noise at the cost of losing a little speed, but the noise is still present mainly due to the coolers. Basically with these high RPM coolers the only way to reduce noise is by lowering them at the cost of losing efficiency or opting for a MAGLEV bearing system like the ones that NOCTUA Coolers come with, which multiply by 10 or 20 times the price of the coolers that come stock on the printers. In any case, we will always have the noise of air moving through the fins of the heatsink. Nothing is perfect!. A big greeting to you and thank you very much for sharing your work!

Good informative video! Thanks ill have to play around with the setting for sure! My first printer arrives tomorrow!!!

I have a repurposed radial fan from an all in one pc that doesn't work anymore and want to use that for my printers part cooling but I think it's a bit big and I'll have to make my own custom design so it's going to be a while before I have something mocked up

I’ve been on the fence about getting an A1 or A1 mini with AMS but I’ve seen some build cheapness that scares me, I can’t see that A1 extruder lasting long enough for my use. My most-used printer is a modified AnkerMake M5c on linear rails and it has roughly 3000 print hours on the stock hotend, stock belts, stock carriage, only changes were rails and Noctua hot end fan, it’s a beast, wish it were open source.

You’re correct, OW first is better for everything if your cooling setup is more than enough. The outer first with enough air cools instantly because it’s a tiny amount of plastic, IW first has the outer wall getting heat from the still-cooling inner wall. Cooling makes the difference!

Outer walls first was important for me, because it improved accuracy and stopped hopes from printing undersized... and it also ended up increasing print quality by a good amount. I use only a mostly factory Ender 3 and get extremely good quality prints from it. I temporarily upgraded the hot end with a Micro Swiss, but for some reason I just can't get it to work right. I have constant partial-clogging and poor quality prints that break easily, because some layers were printed with partial clogs (and the layers are thin walls). I have to go back to the original hot end until I can find a better replacement, but I have no idea what to buy. I don't have a lot of money, but I just want to be able to print CF Nylon. I probably should have just gone with an all metal heat brake, but I was told that the Micro Swiss was the way to go. Also have a Sprite Extruder (not installed) that would be nice to be able to use... but the important thing is being able to print good quality with PLA+ and CF Nylon. Don't care too much about anything else, although higher speed would be nice.

$750 is pricy for a 3D printer. I bought an Ankermake M5 for $400 and it's a thing of beauty. A Bambu Lab P1S was about $600 but its inclosed and come fully assembled.

You should add slice engineerings take

I question your anemometer setup. Ideally an anemometer presents no loading to the airflow, it just spins freely. But using only one third of the anemometer opening is making it behave like a turbine with an attached compressor. The open side is going to push/pull ambient air presenting the fans with a much higher loading (pressure drop) than they would be with just a duct alone. This will bias the measurement, and fans with better pressure performance vs airflow will outshine. Minimally you should block the open inlets of the anemometer so they have less loading.

Slow and hot is the way for mechanical parts.

In my Voron 0, I couldn't feel much difference between the Sherpa-MINI, Orbiter 2, and LGX-Lite, but this Galileo 2 made an overwhelming difference. It has excellent extrusion consistency.

Honestly, it's because they never thought of it. Axial fans are the ones that they're most familiar with, they're light, and thin, and easily mounted directly onto a printhead platform without significant changes to power and weight load requirements.

I just found this video, but I think there is something to building and tuning a 3D printer that is in itself rewarding. The Bambu is better, but the Voron will become your own and you can take a little pride in that. It's like building a hot rod, it doesn't need to be better, it was the journey that made it fun.

7:10 Just wondering - how do you remove the filament after printing through a hotend like that? Won't the bifurcated molten filament solidify into 2 strings at an angle that would block the extraction since they cannot both fit in at the same time?

Was just rewatching this video and I noticed something. Pause at 4:46 and there definitely is a difference for both the Orbiter and Galileo after the Z-wobble fix. Put the video in 4K and go full screen to see it clearest. The easiest difference to spot is the light reflection at the left side of each test print. Before the fix, the line is uneven and much choppier. After the fix it is a nearly perfectly straight reflection. Looking at the overall surface of the print there is a also a slight, but noticeable reduction in any VFA patterns, as well as a more even appearance overall. Pause at 5:09 and the same improvements are even more obvious. The light reflections are much cleaner, especially on the Galileo print, and a visible shifting pattern every several lines is almost completely gone. Overall, the fix was definitely helpful and I'd say there may even be 5% wobble left to completely dial out with a more advanced Z-wobble fix, as you can still see a slight repeating pattern every 26 lines or so, but I think the simple fix was good enough.

Can you do this in CURA?

100 dollars...lol hard pass

What cooling end are you using? 4:18

The interesting thing about videos about fans is that when the video is really good it can turn yourself into a fan.

I am quite happy with the Creality K1-Max since i upgraded from an ender-3. When i bought mine the Creality K1-Max unfortunately was priced over 900$, but i needed a new printer. The only reason i decided to go with the K1-Max instead of the similar priced BambuLab was the bigger buildvolume, if the Bambulab had a similar buildvolume i would have go with it.

outer wall first can give alot of extrusion issues around the seam. the larger the part the worse it gets.

I never would have guessed wow thanks for sharing!

I don't see under which circumstances one would need the torque provided by a second drive gear. If an extruder needs this much torque, it is because there is an issue somewhere that needs to be resolved. Under normal circumstances, one drive gear is plenty.

Seems like the general consensus here is that dual drive is best suited for small nozzles, but single drive probably gives the best quality for standard and larger ones (depending on the setup)

where in the hell can you even buy a tz 3.0 hotend these days ? I don't see any listed on ali or temu.

note: the print parts infill density

At the time of Ender 3 Pro and Prusa MK3S+, I heard once Tim from TH3D to claim that his E3 printed better than Prusas. I thought he was BSing me, but that indeed true. That was the earliest signal that single gear extruder produced nicer prints. The second event that made me a single gear extruder partisan was several bad experiences with the BMG extruders - not only the quality wasn't great, they were uncomfortable to use. And the third event that consolidated my interest for single gear extruder was the amazing experience I had with the EZR extruder. So when I started building DYI printers, I was kind of upset to see they opted for dual gear extruders. That's up to G2 came out, I am converting them to G2 and except from some initial calibration (and getting the gears to accommodate in the gear box) the quality is very nice IMO. At least slightly better than my best tuned CW2.

The latest Orca also has an option to NOT slow down outer walls, so that their appearance is more consistent, no matter the overall layer time. You'll be amazed by the results.

Sub’d. My mind is a little blown. Can’t wait to try all this out!

I have found that using CNC machined gears that use ball bearings rather than needle bearings greatly reduces the layer extrusion errors. I use fysetc, but there are others out there (rigda, mellow etc). The best result I have had so far is using the Sherpa Micro "fixed idler" extruder. There is no tension screw and the tolerance of the print determines the meshing of the gears.

You may be on to something but I can't tell from your pics. I wish I could see some better ones.

I went from CW2 to Galileo 2 and was quite happy, but I was thinking about going Xol and Orbiter 2. Now I'm wondering if that's a mistake, and I should go Xol/G2SA instead. I'll probably build it as I planned first, and test G2SA later, since I won't have a use for the old CW2-style Galileo 2 extruder after that anyhow.

Wont the PAGF35 creep ?!

You need to take a look at the extruder motor drivers(and see if they are the same across all the printers) and see what settings they are working with because microstepping, amperage, frequency hysteresis (this setting is not seen on a typical printer config file but can be put in for better control at least in klipper), etc. all affect the torque curve of the motors. Also the spring preload will affect the torque output as well. All these factors affect the torque consistency and therefore output.

Please do try to adapt the bambulab extruder to the kp3s or other cheaper printers. Id love to see how good they are on cheaper printers, maybe they will be adapted like the tz hotend's.

Nice comparision, i'd love to see how hextrudort low plus with helical dual gears performs... in theory that is also wobble free

DIY hevo corexy dual z leadscrews with sherpa mini. I resolved z banding enabling z hop on prusa slicer. For me it was the backlash on the leadscrews. I would try using oldham couplers sometime in the future.

I don't understand dual gear drives. As the filament is loaded, the gears separate to allow it to pass between them. Surely the drive teeth also separate at the same time, so it's probably filament friction doing a fair amount of work to turn the second drive wheel. The drive teeth will not mesh properly when filament is there.

I don’t remember if you did or if somebody else did a test on the concentricity of the extruder gears but that made a big difference in the print quality.

per curiosità hai provato con ingranaggi stile bmg monoblocco o con ingranaggi fissati con grano???

did you disable A1 active flow rate compensation? does that make difference?

To compare across different machines makes the test rather useless (P1S vs. A1). The only falid test is between Gal2 vs. Orb2 as it is on the same machine with hopefuly the same settings. And there is no visible difference.